In Ramana Ashramam, located at the foot of Arunchalam mountain, bhajans happen daily. During this time, a lot of devotees circumambulate Ramana’s samadhi continuously. For me, it brought to mind memories when a monk had told me to do 108 pradakshinas, I wondered if this was the place I would be able to do those. I tried. But I couldn’t do beyond 60-something rounds. Yet, these pradakshina around Ramana’s samadhi were special – reflective and revealing truths. And then there is the Girivalam – a pradakshina, much longer and next level (in colloquial Tamil language ‘vera level’).

Girivalam, is the beautiful and powerful pilgrimage circumambulating the sacred Arunachala hill in clockwise direction. It is a 14 kms long journey along paved roads, with a multitude of ancient and contemporary temples and ashrams along the way. It is acclaimed as an ancient spiritual activity for devotees by many saints, sages and yogis including Ramana Maharshi.

I was introduced to the Girivalam through my experience at Ramana ashram and their books.

Introduced to Girivalam at Ramana Asramam

Slow, paced over a few days – is my main recollection of all the various readings I have of Ramana on Girivalam. He liked doing his Girivalam over a few days. How lovely, I feel it is, to be deep into the bhakti mood and simply walk around your object of Bhakti. Take halts at powerful temples, maybe with other spiritually advanced beings also in the vicinity, drawn to this magnificent hil

“To go around this Hill is good. The word pradakshina has a typical meaning. The letter ‘pra’ stands for removal of all kings of sins; ‘da’ stands for fulfilling the desires; ‘kshi’ stands for freedom from future births; ‘na’ stands for giving deliverance through Jnana. If by way of Pradakshina you walk one step it gives happiness in this world; two steps, it gives happiness in heaven; and three steps, it gives bliss of Satyaloka which can be attained. One should go round either in mouna (Silence) and dhyana (meditation) or Japa (repetition of Lord’s name) or sankeertana (bhajan) and thereby think of God all the time.” – Ramana Maharshi in Letters from Sri Ramanasramam, as found in the book Guide to Giripradakshina

For a while, my only understanding of Girivalam was from Ramana’s recommendations. But soon, I realized that Arunachala – the holy Hill, the Tiruvannamalai temple town and practice of Girivalam are held sacred in a very big way by the Hindu masses as well. And surprisingly, despite rapid urbanization and corroding cultural values, over the years, the popularity of this space has only grown.

Adi Annamalai is one of the most ancient temples you would come across on your Girivalam. Read my longer post on this temple here.

A comprehensive list of various points of interest on the Girivalam are given in this eGuide, maintained by Ramana ashramam: http://www.sriramana.org/eguide/index.html. In my initial days, I bought the book ‘Guide to Giripradakshina’ from the Ramanasramam book shop, that was my guide to my first few Girivalam. This book is available here on Ramamasramam Online Shop or also on Amazon.

When to Plan your Girivalam?

There isn’t a single “best” time to do the Girivalam; it ultimately depends on your preferences and objectives. Whether you’re seeking a serene experience, pleasant climate, or a cultural immersion, selecting the right time for you will allow you to fully embrace the spiritual and cultural significance of this sacred practice

Weather: Summer is really hot in this region. So, if you plan any of the summer months – April, May, June, July – then best to opt for a late night or wee early morning Girivalam. Solo women, please avoid odd hours due to safety concerns.

Personal Significance: I did my first Girivalam on my birthday. So, choosing to spend a significant day of your life on this spiritual journey is a great option. It is sure to be a memorable experience.

Full moon is held sacred and LAKHs of people come down to this small temple town for Girivalam. The roads are literally full as you walk with the devotional masses. The ambiance is totally different, with a lot more police and government arrangements. Plus, there are food stalls at short intervals, a lot of devotees will sit and refresh. Annadanam, free food offering, would also be happening.The ambiance is quite charged up. I have been on one such full moon night, and I was happy with my experience. While it was crowded, it was a powerful experience nonetheless.

Kartigai Deepam: The most significant day for Arunachalam as per Hindu scriptures. On this night you would find 10 Lakh people or more landing up here. While full moon nights are crowded, kartigai deepam is at a completely different level. If planning for this day, I would suggest going with the flow largely. If you find good accommodations then you can take them. But at least for the main kartigai night, don’t plan to sleep. Be out all night.

I find the idea of being here for kartigai very daunting actually. If I ever did end up being there, then I would plan my transport and accommodations, but not plan beyond that. Cause in that charged place with so many humans and various dynamics – it would be best to go with the flow!

Having said this, I should also mention that after having spent a summer in Tiruvannamalai, every Kartigai Deepam, I remember Arunachalam deep in my heart. It is a strong connection.

Where to Start Your GiriPradakshina?

Ramana devotees often start their pilgrimage from Ramanashramam. Traditionally, Hindus would start from Arunachaleshwarar temple. Other ashram devotees may start from their ashrams also. If some other place enroute is very significant for you, you can start from there. There is no hard and fast rule about this. Mainly, you should return back to the point you are starting at to consider it a completed pradakshina. After all, Tiruvannamalai is such a mingling pot of different ashrams, types of yogis and spiritual community. You can explore your own inclinations without being tied down by any set rules.

How Long Would it Take?

If you walk steadily without many rest stops or long temple breaks then the Girivalam walk would roughly take 4 to 5 hours for a typical healthy individual. However, the duration would differ for different people. Spiritual pilgrimages can be intense affairs – and sometimes you may find it tougher than anticipated. Moreover, with the myriad ancient temples on the way, if you take long temple breaks, then the pilgrimage time increases. So, it really depends how you want to do this pilgrimage, which temples you stop at and so on.

The entire 14 km long walk around the Arunachalam hill is on a paved footpath. However, in some parts of the Tiruvannamalai city, you may have to walk on trafficky roads so the speed would be slower. I would suggest you keep at least half the day free for this pradakshina. If you can keep the entire day free, that is even better, to take time and explore more temples or sit at one temple or meditation spot for longer.

Alternate Paths for Girivalam

Inner Girivalam Path, Now Closed

There used to be an inner route to do the Girivalam, which was not on the external trafficky, city road. It was closer to the hill and through the wilderness. However, due to forest fires, littering and even other safety issues – that inner path has been closed by the authorities. Ramana Ashramam also dissuades people from searching for that path, as it is risky and unsafe.

I would love to do that pilgrimage, but not in a risky way. It would be wonderful if authorities were able to find a way to keep that path open and yet maintain safety of the ecosystem in the region. This would ensure pilgrims get the best experience, and it keeps them off the city traffic roads.

Around the Hill & Up the Hill – Skandasramam, Virupaksha Cave

Another alternative route some people may take is to go around the hill part ways, for example from Ramanashramam to Arunachaleshwarar temple via the normal route. This is about 65% of the pilgrimage. After that instead of walking through the Tiruvannamalai city, they will take a route from behind the Arunchaleshwarar temple that goes up the hill to Skandasramam (Ramana Maharshi’s ashram in earlier days). Virupaksha Cave where many yogis including Ramana have meditated is also here. After taking darshan at these two spots, they will go down the other way right into Ramana Ashramam. So, it is a full journey back to the point you started – but partly around the hill and partly up the hill

This can also be a lovely Girivalam alternative experience. Plus, it lets you visit these two powerful spots on top of the Hill.

Note: Many devotees refuse to step on the Arunachala hill. Because the Hill is a Form of Shiva. So stepping on Arunachala is akin to stepping on Shiva for them. They will only circumambulate.

This place, the sacred mountain of Arunachala in the temple town Tiruvannamalai and Ramana Ashramam has given a completely different flavour and experience of the simple and traditional practice of pradakshina for me. Tell me about your experiences!