The sacred Ganga flows across the state of Uttar Pradesh and bends South towards Prayagraj Triveni sangam. At this bend, on the northern end of the current day Prayagraj city is the area called Shivkuti. Ages ago, Rama bhagwan is said to have done penance here. He consecrated a shivalinga of Koteshwar Mahadev and around it, today, we find a quaint but powerful Shiva temple.
The bend of the Ganga river flowing nearby makes it feel like the temple is surrounded by this sacred water body. Even though the river is at a little distance from the temple, its vibes can be felt especially during the quieter times of day.
My Mahashivratri at Maha Kumbh Mela
I did a large part of my Mahashivratri 2025 jagran (night long sadhana) at this temple during the Maha Kumbh Mela. The Maha Kumbh Mela area extended till Shivkuti. So, I walked about 14 km through the Kumbh camp to reach this temple. However, it was the total outskirts of the Kumbh camp and since it was the last day, it was empty.
Since the police posts were still manned, they all assured me that you can freely roam around. “don’t worry as we all are still here”, they said. So, I loved a silent stroll through the empty Kumbh camps, on Mahashivratri night.
Koteshwar Mahadev Mandir established by Rama Bhagwan
The shivalinga of this temple is surrounded by Shiva’s family – Devi, Kartikeyan, Ganpati and Nandi in the garbhagriha itself. At the back of the garbhagriha there is another Devi shrine. And to the side, outside the sanctum there is a washed-out Shiva Parvati stone sculpture.
Map location here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/quge26qsZXgrcv216
This temple is surrounded by many other ancient shiv lingas … I don’t know the exact number. But they help make it a larger temple complex. In this courtyard a few flower ladies sit with puja material and other worship items.
Shivkuti: Shiva’s Region in Prayagraj
As such Prayagraj is considered Vishnu land with Veni Madhav being the nagara devta (know more about the Madhav temples of Prayagraj here: https://maproute.in/dwadash-madhav-temples-of-prayagraj-historic-parikrama/); Shiv Kuti is Shiva’s Region. Online reports suggest the area to be full of shivlingas and local devotion towards this wild God.
When I went to get flowers from the temple flower ladies – I was also given a copper pot to do jal abhishekam. I expected them to charge some inflated amount because it was Maha Kumbh and Mahashivratri. However, I was in for a surprise. She calculated a total of 40 INR. Super reasonably priced. She seemed to be a devotee herself in the way she behaved.
I got a very good feeling at this place. It is a genuine place which has retained the warm charm of small local temples. Along with these warm vibes, here we have powerful historic significance of Rama Bhagwan’s ancient presence and a lovely geographical location. Great to do some sadhana!
While I usually spend the Mahashivratri night with Sadhguru’s night-long program, this year it was different. Know more about Sadhguru’s Mahashivratri event here: https://maproute.in/mahashivratri-celebration-isha-yoga-center-india/
By the Ganga Bank
River bends and such geographical features can often play a significant role in enriching a temples spiritual energy. When a river bends, it creates a little space that is surrounded by water. This Koteshwar Mahadev temple feels like that – that it is surrounded by the Ganga on 3 sides because of the bend in the river.
Quite close to this temple is the Shivkuti Ghat. I have seen very positive reviews on Google about that ghat also. I, however, didn’t visit that night, as I had other sadhana plans.
The Charm of Sadhana in Less Popular temples
The best part of spending time at these less popular temples is that I could sit in the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) and do my om namah shivaya chanting. At the same time, frequent stream of devotees came by. They did abhishekam and pooja to the linga. Some sat in the alcoves like me and did their mantra japa. Some read scriptures. Some chanted shlokas. Amidst this ambiance… there was a great feeling of unity and diversity in sadhana. I loved it.
I was in a deep meditative state, having had a powerful maha kumbh experience. And also, because I had an intoxicating darshan of Maa Kali earlier in the night. So, I was lost in that rhythm. It was a powerful night for me. And I was glad to find this shivakuti temple.
Other temples around Shiva Kuti to explore
Shiva Kacheri Mandir:
This temple called Shiva’s “court” mandir has over 250 lingas. It has a strange story related to Nepal royal family who established this temple more than 200 yrs ago. Seems like an intriguing visit.
Shiva Kuti Ghat
While Prayagraj is known for the Triveni sangam and the sangam water, a Ganga River dip will always have its charm. So, shivkuti ghat is on the Ganga river that enters into Prayagraj before the sangam. Would be worth a visit and feet dip.
Leave a comment