One of the more exciting aspects about my 1000 km solo cycle tour in Thailand was cycling through a border crossing. It was my first actual border crossing by road. I have crossed through multiple schengen countries – Portugal to Spain, Germany to Denmark, Germany to Switzerland, Switz to France – but not a single check point nor look out staff. So this was my first border checkpoint experience and that too on cycle and solo! Yay!

If you want, you can skip the story and read the logistical details right way.

This first border crossing ride was from a town called Trat in Thailand to Koh Kong in Cambodia. It is about 100 odd kms. The first 30 kms is flat highway which I rode. Later on it gets hilly and I didn’t plan to ride it. So I tried to hitchhike or take a Songtheaw. After trying for many kms, finally one Songtheaw stopped and took me onboard. The cycle was quickly tied to the door bars. There is one small town that it stops at. If you want to take a night halt before crossing the border then there might be a hotel here. I don’t remember the towns name. The G maps also shows other hotels on route.

Finally, for 300 Baht, the Songtheaw dropped me at Hat Lek – the border crossing post on the Thai side.

We got off the Songtheaw, an American boy and I were the last passengers. A few Thai local men waiting there as luggage porters got super excited to see my cycle trussed up like a piked fish. They would be used to it, Thailand and Cambodia are both popular cycle touring countries. They were a little confused however, probably because I was wearing the cycling clothes, while the American boy was in beachwear. But still I was a girl and Asian at that. So first they asked me if I was going to cycle and then they turned their heads to him. He politely said no (too polite fellow)… and then they had to settle down to observe me. Sure, I smiled and got along with my work. Loaded my luggage onto the cycle. And cycled towards the border post. These 2-3 Thai men were nothing daunting compared to the coterie of men hanging about a Hindu temple in India to make some quick bucks by offering (dubious) services to the incoming devotees.

But I was going to cross a border, on foot (or wheels), solo! So I was trying to keep myself alert and watchful for any scams. This is usually a crappy approach as it makes us folks over cautious and prone to silly mistakes. I had researched about this border post well enough and mostly it was ok. The “scams” were mostly some small over-charging habits in the officers or local luggage porters and the like. Quite common in India, so it didn’t worry me.

“Surprisingly Commonplace”

Is how I can describe my experience. You’d think there would be some bells and whistles. Or something so unusual about going from one country to another. But it was an anti-climax of sorts. Especially, the Thai side.

I had to roll in to the little hut with window. The officer had gone off somewhere so I stood around for a bit, bought a bottle of water and chatted with the man in front. He was Turkish, and here for a visa run. 15 minutes to get out of the country, get a stamp and then walk right back in he said. I didn’t realise that even Turkish passports were privileged enough for such visa runs.

In a few minutes the officer was back. He took a quick look at the passport and visa. I still had a few days of my Thai visa left. He asked me whether I planned to re-enter into Thailand. I said no, I plan to go to Vietnam. So he was happy enough and stamped me out.

Ta-da, farewell Thailand!

No mans land

A few minutes walk away was the Cambodian border check point called Cham Yeam. In between was the No Man’s land, I guess that is what it is called. A little patch of undeveloped and kind of unkempt land with the sea in the distance. Kind of an orphan land which neither country can lay claim to.

Cham Yeam, the Cambodian border check point

& why I entered the country without my passport or visa!!

The Cham Yeam point was indeed bustling much more than the Thai side of the checkpoint. There were many local folks standing around, not sure for what. Unlike the Thai luggage porters, they didn’t approach me. I think they are used to seeing cycle tourers who manage everything on their own. I think many cycle tourers tend to be very economical some because they have been cycling for years.

The process at this check point was easy enough.

The officer had gone for lunch and was sitting on the other side of the room. I didn’t know he was having lunch so I started waving him to get his attention. And he brusquely replied, “wait please”.

Haha, I Indian, I not know the meaning of Wait please. 😀

Soon the officer came there and checked my papers. The line was growing and it was insanely hot. I had a one month e-visa from Cambodia. It is very easy to get online, without submitting the passport or anything. Simply fill a form with basic details and that is it. One can even change the port of entry after we get the visa. The port of exit need not even be filled at all. Very relaxed for a cycle tourer as we don’t need to plan too much.

He needed 2 photocopies of the e-visa. I had only 1.

I probably should have told him to make do with his 1 copy, which he had to stamp. The 2nd copy was for the time I leave the country anyway. But I wasn’t sure whether he needed to stamp the second copy or no. So I figured I can get a copy, wouldn’t there be a xerox machine nearby?

Errrr…. NOPE! There was no photo copy machine in that border post office!

So that was my first introduction with Cambodia. And it came crashing into my brain that this country was poorer than India. Not that I have seen any of India’s land border crossings. I would like to think that they would have a photo copy machine.

So a nearby motorcycle guy jumped in. He was happy to take me 2 kms into Cambodia to get a copy.

2 kms?!!

4 dollars, only.

Nope. I didn’t want to spend 4 dollars. Already my brain was high wired looking for scams and I couldn’t trust this 4 dollar ride. Moreover, where would I keep my cycle in the mean time?! Huh, huh, huh?!

Ok, then. I told him that I have a cycle, I don’t need your ride. Lols!!

So, I without my passport – it was with the officer! I cycled into Cambodia. Hahaha.

So I can, quite truthfully (and legally) say that I entered Cambodia without my Passport or Visa!

😀

Well, I cycled 2kms to the little market. There was one hilly bump on the way, ouch. But apart from that I felt like a total brat (powerful). Found my way to the photocopy shop. The attendant couldn’t speak much English, but she got me a photocopy. I showed her a lot of my Thai Baht notes and she picked one.

For the next few days in Cambodia that is how I gave people money. I showed them a hand full of notes – a few dollar notes and some Cambodian Rial notes. They picked whatever they were owed. Finally, once I figured out what the exchange between the Rial and Dollars was, I didn’t think anyone had over-charged me. Sweet people and also I think, very often when we trust people openly, they reciprocate.

Anyway, got my photocopy. And cycled back. The hilly bump made itself felt on the legs.

And it was really, really hot.

By the time I reached the checkpoint again, there was a line there. And I had to fill a form.

I couldn’t find my pen and borrowed it from the local guy nearby. I thought he might want to charge me for it. But nope didn’t. In fact, he spoke only one word with me “baaike”. Yes, he loved bikes and cyclists. Ok, thanks man for the pen and also friendliness. 🙂

Filled the form…. sweating…. there was a water cooler nearby, happy for that.

Stood in line… which wasn’t moving ahead at all.

See, I am Indian, so unlike these other locals – Thai or Cambodians – I wouldn’t just stand there. I smiled at everyone and politely headed to the window and started waving around for the officer. When the guy saw me, he called me to another side window and took the 2nd photocopy from me and started working on my entry.

No clue what those other people in line were waiting for.

My work was done in a few minutes. I told the officer with a nice bow, ‘Arkoun’ – thanks. The one word I knew in Khmer.

And that’s it.

Got onto the bike and headed for that hilly bump for the 3rd time.

3rd time the winner. Haha.

Onwards to Koh Kong.

Another 10 kms – the only kms which I rode in the Cambodian countryside.

I noted that it seemed dilapidated after Thailand and yet not that bad either. Hot. And some dirt paths went into the distance. I hadn’t realised that a LOT of roads in Cambodia are red mud. I assumed this was some kind of a small, ditch road.

The foliage was great and I could see the sea in the distance.

Came to some crossroads in a bit. And then only a few kms to Koh Kong.

The entry to Koh Kong wasn’t bad at all. Hello, Cambodia!

Logistical Details About Hat Lek – Cham Yeam border crossing point

Hat lek: border crossing point of Thailand

Trat: closest big sized town to Hat lek. About 90 kms away. It has an airport, bus station and the works. So you can come in to this town via various transports. There are many hotels and small boutique places to stay. A little bit of sight seeing. Some travellers really like the vibe of this place, I was so-so on that.

Koh Chang: About 50 kms from Trat is the island Koh Chang. Many travellers head this way to visit this island. You can get ferry tickets and other nitty gritties for Koh Chang in Trat.

Cham Yeam: border crossing point of Cambodia

Koh Kong: is the province where Cham Yeam is located.

Krong Khemara Phoumin: nearest town to Cham Yeam is 10 kms away. A lot of people say ‘Koh Kong’ to mean this town, people like me in the post above. This is the largest town in Koh Kong province. There is a bus stop and air port here. So one can land here and take transport to other parts of Cambodia. Direct buses to Phnom Penh, Silhanouk, Sri Ambel are possible.

This Koh Kong region is home to the Cardamom mountains, considered one of the last stretches of undisturbed forest on the planet. There are some offbeat beaches and islands nearby.

Transport from Trat to Hat Lek to Cham Yeam to Krong Khemara

If you don’t have a cycle, you can take a mini bus or songtheaw from Trat to Hat Lek. The American boy who was with me in the songtheaw was charged 300 Bahts from Trat to Hat lek. I think that is too expensive. It should be possible for lesser. I had a cycle, so anyway, they charge me more.

From Hat Lek to Cham Yeam is only a few kms so walk it. Luggage boys would be available with little carts to carry your luggage if needed.

From Cham Yeam to Krong Khemara there are buses, taxis and motor bikes available. I didn’t ask the cost but I guess a motorbike would charge easily $10-15 to a person. And you would need to carry your luggage somehow. To avoid getting fleeced here, better to pre-book some taxi or bus earlier – either through your Cambodian hotel or from Trat itself. And if you feel adventurous you can walk the 10 kms. Should be doable.

That’s about it. Let me know if you have any queries.

Have you crossed a border by road? Tell me about it!