Here I am in Kozhikode (pronounced Co-Li-co-Day), Kerala for a week of Kalaripayattu. As with Kalari, this is also my first experience with Kerala – I am staying at my teacher’s (respectfully called Gurakkal) homestay, getting vegetarian Malabar food (without onion and garlic) and everyone typically speaks only Malayalam sometimes with a smattering of Hindi or English! 🙂

I am recording my day to day experience with Kalaripayattu in this blog post, because it is a very new thing for me (and maybe for you too)! I am not naturally a fitness oriented person. Over the years of cycling long distance, walking, hiking and so on, it has been quite a journey for me to wake up and put in 45 mins of rigorous physical effort. Initially, I had doubts whether I would manage at all, but it has been surprisingly OK!

Day 1:

By 5.15 AM sounds of weapons and combat could be heard down below. The morning Kalari class had begun. I was tired from my travels yesterday from Coimbatore to Kozhikode, so I slept a bit more and then meditated for a while. I was yet to do my yoga, wasn’t sure when I would do that (cause I didn’t know the Kalari class timings yet). Anyway, I headed down soon enough to my first session unsure about my clothes (tracks and a tee). The teacher greeted me and he showed me firstly the bowing ritual. Bow to the kalari ground, the weapons, the older gurus and the teacher himself, then deities in all 4 corners of the ground.

Clicked these photos at a demonstration they had for some visitors. First everyone will start by bowing down…

This was also my first time with any traditional Bharatiya (Indian) arts so this bowing down was interesting for me. Earlier in my younger years I would have been a bit discomfited by it, but now with all my years of Yoga and spirituality I am quite appreciative of this lovely culture of our country.

So in this first session I learnt the basic warm ups which hardly last few minutes. Then came the tough one a 3 step kicking practice. Which went on for a while. I had to kick higher, keep balance, move forward. the most difficult was keeping the hands stretched right up and the head also upturned looking up while doing the practice.

In yoga, I have generally been very good with postures. But here there is a deliberate push to do more, do more. The worst was the shoulders – they just start stinging right away. Had to take breaks mainly to cool them a bit.

It’s not surprising. I have lately been cycling and walking for fitness – neither develop upper body strength. I remember when I used to swim, it seemed like I was getting some shoulder exercises for the first time. So if you are coming for Kalari I can suggest some light Swimming as a prep.

Session 2:

Session 1 was OK in terms of body pain and tiredness so a session 2 on same first day happened at 4.15 PM. I am considering not doing any 2nd session on same day. Because it was quite tiring! I did the same kick practice as earlier and then had to do something else which was kicking, turning 180 degrees, kicking again and completing the turn to 360 degrees all the while balanced on only one leg. Ulp. Yes, it was tough and confusing as it sounds. Again hands were stretched right up and face upturned. Shoulder stinged and I couldn’t balance well at all. Haha.

I hope I can do a good job with it tomorrow!

1st day kalaripayattu. Close to death.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 22, 2018

Day 2:

I *ahem* did my best. I had two variations of practice to do. One with straight kicks and a second with front and back kick with full turn. I was still struggling with basic balance of the second practice. And the first one was far from perfect.

Yes, I do have thoughts of perfection because number of times I have been told I do my yoga asanas to perfection (I don’t know whether they were actually perfect, but they were at least well done!).

Anyway, this day the pain happened.

Kalaripayattu Day 2. Hard to move. Body gone in inertia mode. Random muscles paining.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 23, 2018

Day 3:

The pain had receded somewhat when I woke up in the morning. Though I was a bit wary. Yesterday, I had put a light coat of oil as instructed before the session. Today I put a more liberal coat of oil. Also removed my rudraksh mala. Perfection is still far away but in my second or third practice round I got a whiff of balance in the second front and back kick practice. Legs feel stiff so kicks don’t seem to be going high enough.

Was taught a third practice – circular kicking with one leg. This also requires a slight turn of the body which doesn’t come naturally some times.

Balance is key. Looking forward to tomorrow’s session.

I have stopped the second session since yesterday, this is helping. Pushing myself too much doesn’t work well for me generally, especially, when it comes to physical effort.

Kalaripayattu Day 3. Pain has receded. Improved energy. Got a whiff of ‘balance’.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 24, 2018

Day 4:

Kalaripayattu Day 4 : doing better. Balance still elusive.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 25, 2018

I also decided to extend my learning for a few more days. I had earlier come to “check this stuff out” in one week but I feel a few more days will be good.

Day 5:

Was taught a new practice called Irti. Basically sitting down and getting up. Too tough.

Kalaripayattu Day 5 : I think I might die. The 5th exercise taught today I can’t find any muscles at all.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 26, 2018

At the end of class I realised that the small skin peel on one toe was a massive peel. And there was another smaller skin peel starting on the other toe. Heels are also getting bruised… as the constant rubbing on the hard mud floors. Vijayan gurukkal who is a super healing practitioner too with his knowledge of Marma put some oily ointment and bandaged my toes. #Phew

Day 6:

As exciting it is to learn a new practice step, because it is also like an accomplishment… but not when the step is so tough! 😀 Yesterday, I learnt a step that simulates being pushed down in battle and then getting up. Irti. Today the teacher showed me the entire step (yesterday he had shown me only half of it).

Kalaripayattu Day 6 : it seems there are some muscles in my body I am not aware of. Now that they are aching. 😸 Pummelled and also surprisingly liking it.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 27, 2018

Kids in Irti posture (once they have sat down). It also involves getting up…

Once this sitting down practice starts the clothes get muddied (guys very conveniently don’t wear any… ahem, except small shorts or half lungi). Mud gets into the nails and hair too. Some small wounds may happen on the hand etc… as we are sitting and getting up.

At this point I must say my balance for the double kick with 360 turn is getting better. Also, when one has a tougher practice to consider I guess the older ones get easier. 😀

Day 7:

After yesterday, the body has been paining and super stiff. I tried doing some surya namaskars. They seemed to loosen it a bit but still difficult. So today I went with the idea of doing half the exercises and coming back. In hindsight, this is not always a good idea. It’s usually better to keep the mind open and gauge the situation – in the off chance that when I get to the field I may be motivated and energised by the environment (though being an introvert this hardly ever happens with me). But I was worried I might end up over doing today and worsen the pain so I thought it was better to go with a prepared mind. So that’s what I did – left after just two rounds.

With a stiff body everything is even more tough even the simpler kicks. Also, at around 7.15 AM the hall gets a bit emptier but today it didn’t. Double whammy 😉

I did learn the getting up practice a little bit better. #phew I am not sure when this particular practice – a round of Irti’s will be manageable for me.

Kalaripayattu Day 7 : this new practice learned yesterday called इरति has been too tough. Everything paining. Did half a session and left. Resting.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) February 28, 2018

Day 8:

After yesterday’s relaxed session, I was a little more pepped for today. At times the legs and body did loosen up to kick decently high and do the needful. Haha. One full round of इरति happened and I held up #phew. Then I was taught a new upper body attack and defense stance. Tough on the waist as it involves a full vertical U type motion. Straight up and then dip very low and then hold a crouched stance with elbows jutting out and protecting the face.

Along with this a few variations of kicks which I doubt I will remember. 😉

Kalaripayattu Day 8: managed to do one round of इरति without getting totally out of wind. Learnt something new – upper body manouevering attack and defence. And a bunch of kick variations which I doubt I will remember.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) March 1, 2018

I have clicked a few pictures when they had a kalari demonstration for a visiting group of travelers, probably through some tour group. But I don’t click pictures in class and I don’t think it is a proper thing to do anyway. These marital arts are like Yoga. It is a spiritual and rigorous practice. There is an Om Namah Shivaya chant in the background. We start by bowing and end by bowing down. Unlike a gym or fitness routine which is associated with fun music and other entertaining elements.

Day 9:

Until yesterday, the upcoming morning Kalari session was a big deal…. “whoa I have to go there, will my body cope” etc… today there was a shift. I feel able to put in 30 – 45 mins of rigorous sessions. Max to max my body maybe rigid and paining so my kicks won’t be very high. But I think I can do this! I did 2 rounds of इरति today, the posture is not at all well done, but I manage. I learnt the new style of crouching and elbow attack & defence stance yesterday. And I did couple of rounds of that too, again posture not the best, but manageable. Learnt another one which I am going to call butterfly exercise because I have to keep my palms behind my ears outspread… this is a move with multiple steps – first left leg kick with hands outstretched behind the ears then a front step and crouch down. Then again get up and repeat. So the moves are getting more complex. And I feel able to cope. Which is an amazing feeling that I have never had before.

Physical fitness routines have always been difficult for me…. but I think the years of long distance cycling, walking for travel exploration, pilgrimages, yoga and hiking has moved the needle.

It is an amazing feeling, hard to articulate.

Kalaripayattu Day 9 : Managing. Surprisingly. Without bothering too much of the posture details… Cause no way I can get them totally right as of now.

— Priyanka Dalal (@priyankawriting) March 2, 2018

Day 10:

I took a massage yesterday which was really good. But I think the kalari stress and massage relaxation didn’t suit too well. Probably, this 82% humidity in the weather also contributed. I got fever. So, I didn’t go to kalari session. I may go tomorrow if I am better.

My main purpose in these first 7 – 10 day stay was to ascertain the accomodation, food and other facilities. I will now plan to come in the cooler months, to stay here for a month or two and learn Kalari in a slow and steady manner. That’s the only way to really learn this martial art form. I have got some basic exercises (not so basic ones too). I will speak with the Gurukkals and figure what I should continue on my own.