With this blog post, I start my writing into the Girivalam i.e. circumambulation (pradakshina) around the sacred Arunachala mountain of Tiruvannamalai. It feels fitting to start this series with Adi Annamalai temple, one of the 3 oldest temples in the region. The other two being the famous Arunachaleshwarar fire temple and near to it, the Arunagirinathar.

Having started my pradakshina in the wee morning hours from Ramana Ashramam, it takes a little more than an hour to reach this temple. Thus, I visited this temple fairly early in the day. I had already read so much about it that I was curious what my experience of it would be.

It seems to be located diametrically on the opposite side of the famous Arunachaleshwarar temple with the sacred Arunachalam hill rising in between.

Adi Annamalai’s Recent & Not-so Recent History

Arunachala hill is known to be a cooled down volcano. But not everyone knows that the region has been dated to the Archaen era. Basically, that means that it is an IMMENSELY ANCIENT volcano even for the Indian context, where temples dating a few 1000 years old are common. But Archean era is MILLIONs of years old!

“Archaean greenstone belts and associated granitic rocks comprise some of the most diverse rock types on the Earth’s surface and were formed during the early stages of the development of the planet from Eoarchaean to Neoarchaean times – a period extending back from about 4000 to 2500 million years ago.” Source

“The BIF of this (Tiruvannamalai) area is chemically different from those around the world.” says the scientists of India. Read paper about Tiruvannamalai’s Archaen belt.

So, the initial lingas made from the original rocks of Tiruvannamalai are indeed timeless! Now, let’s look at some of the more ‘recent’ past of this temple…

The Pandyan king Vajrangada is said to have built a beautiful temple for this linga. Checking the timeline of the Pandyan dynasty, it ranges from the 4th to 15th century. However we get a clue because Samandar’s thevaram mentions this temple, thus, dating it back to the 6th century at least. In the 9th century, Manickavasagar composed his popular Tiruvempavai near this temple.

After that it seems that the temple slowly fell into ruins and only in 1918 was renovated over 15 years with financial support from a group of Chettiars. After that, the next round of renovations and modernization with electric wiring and such embellishments happened in 1993 by Swami Ramananda, one of the devotees of Ramana Maharshi.

This is the history of the temple that I can trace so far.

Created by Brahma?

Who consecrated the first Adi Annamalai lingam? Legends suggest it was Brahma himself. There are two stories around this,

Shiva manifested as the limitless pillar of light. Both Brahma and Vishnu traveled high and low to find the end of this pillar. Brahma, in a momentary lapse of judgement, came back and lied about having reached the end of this pillar. Shiva became furious and cursed him. Thus, as atonement Brahma consecrated this linga on the western side of the hill and did his penance.

Another story suggests,

Brahma (again) had a momentary lapse of judgement and lusted after celestial being Tilothama. Tilothama had to flee from the chasing Brahma and she found her way to Arunchala. In such a sacred space, Brahma regained his senses, and consecrated this Adi Annamalai linga as atonement.

It is interesting that both the stories implicate Brahma in inappropriate behaviour. And then He atones by consecrating this Adi Annamalai linga.

Ramana Maharshi’s Experiences at Adi Annamalai

Ramana Maharshi has mentioned this temple a few times, to my knowledge. He is said to have stayed overnight in this temple during a Girivalam. And in the wee hours, He heard samaveda being chanted in the garbhagriha even though there was no one there. It was attributed to celestial beings.

“It is a good place. I used to stay there occasionally. Once on a giri-pradakshina we were caught in the rain and we stayed the whole night in the temple there. It was then I heard the Sama veda chant” – Ramana Maharshi as quoted in the Day by Day with Bhagwan book page 103

Explore Ramana Maharshi’s books at the Ramanasramam online bookstore. Or you can also order off Amazon.

Ramana also spoke about having a vision of a tunnel that went right into the heart of the hill and came out from the other side. One end of it is said to open in the Adi Annamalai temple. Siddha purushas and divine beings are said to be residing in the heart of the Arunachala hill.

It seems in one of the renovations, the authorities did find a tunnel opening. The few explorations of the tunnel suggested it was leading into the hill. However, on advise of Ramana, the tunnel was sealed shut. I guess the siddha purushas or divine beings wouldn’t need the physical opening to traverse, it was probably created at another time when it made sense for certain yogis to use this way. But now with the increase of devotees who are not accomplished yogis, is it better to keep these places closed? (Source)

After having read so much about this temple, I wondered when I visited, whether I would experience something. Well, it was a peaceful visit. I don’t have anything that I can articulate about my experience. Except that it was something different. I was filled with a feeling that there was something different in this temple. That’s all. Though beyond that I couldn’t fathom what exactly was different.

Thus, is my account of my Adi Annamalai temple visit 🙂

Have you been on the girivalam? Tell me about your experience!

Travel Box:

Bus, Train, Cab: You can travel to Tiruvannamalai in bus or train or private taxi from any of the nearby towns and cities. Tiruvannamalai is not a major junction so fewer direct connections would be there. The nearest junction is Villupuram or Salem.

Fly: You can fly down to Chennai and take a taxi or bus or train from there to Tiruvannamalai.

Stay: Write to Ramana ashram and try for accommodation, details here. If that is not available, you can try Pink house as a friend of mine recommended.

Once in town, either go on a girivalam – 14 km circumambulation walk around the hill and visit Adi Annamalai on the way. Or take an auto rickshaw to visit this temple.