Nakoda is a historic village near the small town of Balotra in western Rajasthan. The main attraction of Nakoda is the ancient tirthasthala of the Shwetambar Jain Community which has an ancient history spanning 100s of years. Specifically, it has become very popular due to the powerful Nakoda Bhairava demi-god in the main Jain temple.

What is Nakoda Famous For?

Nakoda is famous for the Bhairava demi-god, popularly known as “Nakoda Bhairava”. A lot of Jain (& non-Jain) pilgrims visit this sacred tirtha, to take blessings of this Nakoda Bhairava form. The main Jain tirthankar in this temple is the Nakoda Parshwanath (23rd Jain Tirthankar).

A few 100 metres away from this main Jain temple complex, is the Nakoda Kala Bhairava temple. This is a beautifully carved, white marble, Jain temple. The main demi-god is for Kala Bhairava. Both the Bhairava forms are considered to be closely related.

This region of Rajasthan has a typical folk loric form of Bhairava shown as two demi-gods – Shweta (White) Bhairava and Kala (Dark) Bhairava. In local language they are referred to as Goraji – Kalaji. Here in Nakoda, the sandalwood idol in the main Jain temple complex is the Shwet Bhairava form or ‘Goraji’. His counterpart Kala Bhairava is in the outside temple.

Know more about the Goraji – Kalaji Rajashtan folk lore and Bhairava forms in this video:

Sattvic Bhairav Forms 

These are Sattvic Bhairava forms as per Jain rules of worship. Meat nor (drinking) alchohol is offered to either of these Bhairava forms. However, Kaal Bhairava is offered Perfume which is also a form of Alcohol.  

The Nakoda Kaal Bhairava is offered oil on certain days. Outside his sanctum, ghungru (ankle bells) are placed which devotees can ring as an offering. A Damroo is also kept here, for devotees to offer damroo sounds. Aarti is performed daily with coconut shells burnt to create the aarti fire. There is a havan pit outside this temple, suggests such pujas and offerings must be happening here.  

Nakoda Shwet Bhairav in the main temple complex is actually very popular outisde of Nakoda as well. All Jain temples across the country have small shrines for demi-gods – many of these will have Nakoda Shwet Bhairava as the guardian deity. 

Wondering about the Nakoda Bhairava Sadhana process?

I have earlier written about Powerful Kaal Bhairava spots outside of Kashi in this blog post: https://maproute.in/powerful-kaal-bhairava-spots-outside-kashi/

How to Travel to Nakoda?  

Nakoda is near Jodhpur. You can take a train or flight to Jodhpur and then take private or public transport to Balotra, a small town on the banks of the Luni river. From Balotra, you can take a shared auto or private taxi to Nakoda. It is only 13 kms from Balotra to Nakoda.  

Beware of the auto rickshaw guys outside Nakoda temple, they are cunning folk and won’t leave a chance to fleece gullible travellers.  

Where to Stay in Nakoda? 

There is a large dharamshala at the Jain Nakoda temple. They also have a wonderful bhojnalaya. In order to book your stay, email nakodarooms(@)gmail.com 

The prices are quite reasonable. Solo folk are allowed (this is very rare)! They provide accommodation for 24 hours only.  

In case there is no availability here, then I would suggest checking something in Balotra. Or nearby small towns might also have heritage hotels or desert camps. Please check the reviews and ratings of these stays properly. This is a tourist route and some scams are happening in the area.  

Nakoda to Jaisalmer 

Nakoda is 4 hours from Jaisalmer, so it may be worth adding a few more days to do a Jaisalmer trip. That way you would cover the whole western Rajasthan circuit on your Nakoda trip.